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Overview: Best portable table saw review testing procedures

Running a table saw review test

For accurate results in our table saw review, we put seven saws through a variety of setting up and cutting tests. We’ll help you choose the best table saw for your needs.

Our table saw review quickly showed that today’s portable table saws are light-years ahead of the small-saw offerings from a decade ago. They feature big-capacity cutting, greatly improved safety features and attached stands for easy setup. And saws in the upper price range rival stationary saws in accuracy and quality of cut. We limited our review to saws that included a stand with wheels and ones that could rip at least 24 in. wide, only the best table saw for our readers!

We spent a lot of time setting up and taking down the saws to see how well the stands worked and how easy it was to install and remove the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls. Then we ran a torturous ripping test with 3-in.-thick slabs of oak to find the best table saw. And finally, we used the saws for more conventional tasks like cutting plywood and ripping framing lumber as another test to determine the best table saw.

Good news: All seven cut well

Our biggest surprise while running the best table saw review tests was in the cutting power and the quality of cut: There wasn’t much difference among them. All these saws ripped through 3-in.-thick oak without hesitating. We tried this test with the stock blades that came on the saws. Then we repeated the test using a top-quality blade in each saw.

As you would expect, the most expensive saws made slightly smoother cuts. But the difference was negligible. The only saw that struggled to make smooth cuts in the super-thick oak was the Ryobi. In more common situations, like cutting 3/4-in.-thick material, Ryobi’s cut quality was fine. We found the blades included with all the saws to be adequate for most ripping tasks. But if you want cuts smooth enough for glue joints, you’ll have to invest in a better blade.

All these saws have 15-amp motors and are capable of ripping boards and plywood, but there are things that set them apart. We discovered that the differences in the best table saw were in the quality and ease of use of features such as stands, blade guards, rip fences and blade controls.

Favorite features 1: Stands that are easy to set up

Sturdy stands

The Bosch 4100-09 has an easy-to-set-up stand, is sturdy and has a handle and wheels for instant mobility.

All these saws have attached, collapsible stands with wheels that allow you to roll them around when they’re folded up. A few, like the DeWalt, Rockwell and Ryobi, can’t be wheeled around after they’re set up. But the biggest difference between stands is in how easy it is to set them up. The Ridgid and Bosch have nearly identical stands that work great and require you to only flip or depress one lever to unlock the stand. These are our favorites. The DeWalt stand is the sturdiest of the bunch and very intuitive. It sets up like a card table with legs that fold out and snap into place. The remaining candidates for best table saw have several different stand systems that aren’t quite as easy to set up but that work fine once you get the hang of them.

Favorite features 2: Heavy-duty miter gauges

Heavy-duty miter gauge

A sturdy miter gauge like this Ridgid system is essential for making accurate cross-cuts.

The miter gauges on these saws range from downright flimsy to cabinet-saw quality. All the saws except the Craftsman and the DeWalt also have T-tracksa nice feature that captures the miter gauge bar, making it easier to start wider crosscuts. Because the Ryobi and DeWalt saws don’t have a standard miter gauge slot, you can’t use accessories that require a 3/4-in. slot.

While the Bosch, DeWalt and Ridgid all have great miter gauges, we prefer the Ridgid because it has holes and slots for mounting a longer fence and other accessories.

Favorite features 3: Sturdy and accurate rip fence

Adjustable rip fence

The DeWalt rack-and-pinion fence adjustment system is easy to use and accurate.

We think the single most important feature on any table saw is the rip fence. After all, 90 percent of the cuts you’ll make are rips, and making them accurately is crucial. A good fence has many qualities, but the most important one is the ability to lock down securely and parallel to the blade every time.

In addition, a top-quality fence should move smoothly and have a scale that’s accurate and easy to read. Our favorite is the DeWalt fence. The rack-and-pinion system keeps the fence parallel to the blade, and the micro-adjusting knob allows easy and precise fence positioning. Runners-up in this category for best table saw are the Ridgid and Bosch saws. They both have superb fences, with the added advantage of T-slots for attaching accessories like featherboards.

Video: Choosing the Best Circular Saw Blade

Favorite features 4: Easy blade controls

Blade tilt and raise mechanism

The Ridgid saw features a rack-and-pinion tilt adjustment.

Handwheel tilt mechanism

The handwheel on the Porter-Cable saw delivers easy adjustment and precision.

The blade-raising cranks on some saws are easier to turn than on others because of the type of mechanism used and the gear ratio. The difference was slight, though, and the only crank that didn’t turn smoothly was the one on the Craftsman saw.

Methods for tilting the blade to cut bevels vary among the saws. The Porter-Cable saw is the only one with a conventional handwheel bevel control mounted on the side of the saw. The crank gives you great control for setting an exact angle. To set the bevel on the Bosch, DeWalt and Rockwell saws, you simply release the bevel-lock lever and tilt the saw to the preferred angle. It’s easy to go quickly from a 90-degree to a 45-degree bevel with this method. The Ridgid, Craftsman and Ryobi saws have a rack-and-pinion setup. These saws utilize the front crank for setting the bevel.

Favorite features 5: Convenient safety devices

Safety features

All saws have safety features that include a riving knife, anti-kickback pawls and a blade guard.

The biggest advance in portable table saw features in the past few years is the safety gear. Every one of these saws includes a riving knife that reduces kickback by keeping the board from pinching on the saw blade. They also include removable antikickback pawls with teeth that dig into the board if it is pulled backward.

And finally, they all include a blade guard that can be removed and reinstalled without tools. Because a few sawing operations, such as non-through cuts, require you to remove the blade guard, we like saws that make this task easy. The Bosch, DeWalt and Ridgid saws have well-designed blade guards that are easy to remove and reinstall. The blade guards on all but the Porter-Cable and Craftsman also have a feature that holds the blade guard in the raised position to allow better blade visibility for setting up cuts.

Favorite features 6: Wide-capacity fences

Separate fence scale

On this Bosch saw you read the fence to blade measurement on a scale separate from the fence.

Continuous fence scale

On this Ridgid saw you read the fence to blade measurement wherever you set the fence.

All these saws have fences that extend to at least 24 in. to allow you to rip a 4 x 8-ft. sheet of plywood in half. And they all have a slightly different way of accomplishing this. DeWalt has the most straightforward method. You just push the fence out on its rails and flip over the board support. On the Rockwell saw, you flip out a hinged fence rail. The only drawback to this fence is that it must remain in the extended position for any cut, so it takes up quite a bit of room. The remaining saws require you to release one or two levers and pull out the fence extension.

The scales that indicate the width of cut fall into one of two categories: continuous and separate. Of the seven we’re reviewing, DeWalt, Ridgid and Rockwell are continuous. You simply line up the fence with the desired measurement. The other four best table saw optionsBosch, Craftsman, Ryobi and Porter-Cablerequire you to lock the fence in a specific position on fully extended rails, and read the dimension on a separate scale. We prefer the continuous scales and really like the tape measuretype scale on the Ridgid.

Favorite features 7: Dust control

All seven saws in the best table saw testing have some kind of dust control. The Rockwell saw has a completely enclosed motor compartment with a large dust bag that attaches under the saw to catch sawdust. The remaining saws have a shroud around the blade and a 2-1/2-in. port on the back for attaching either a bag or a vacuum cleaner. None were perfect, but at least you can catch most of the sawdust. The Craftsman and Ryobi also include a dust bag that attaches to the vacuum cleaner port.

Saws under $450: Craftsman is the most compact

Craftsman JT2502RC

This saw is compact and one of the least expensive. Cost $290

The next four saws represent a good cross-section of the under-$450 selection. Any one of them would be fine for the weekend warrior who needs a compact saw for occasional use.

The Craftsman table saw is one of the most compact of the bunch when it’s folded up. And if you can get it for the sale price of $260, it’s also the cheapest of the best table saw options. The blade guard and anti-kickback pawls are identical to the Porter-Cable and are the hardest of any of the saws to install. And they are the only two blade guards that don’t have a feature to hold them out of the way when you’re adjusting the blade or setting up the cut.

Saws under $450: Porter-Cable has blade-tilting handwheel

Porter-Cable PC B220TS

This saw has a handwheel for adjusting the blade tilt precisely. Cost: $299

The Porter-Cable looks like a beefed-up version of the Craftsman, with the same blade guard and anti-kickback pawls. This is the only saw in our test with a blade-tilting handwheel, which makes it easier to dial in a precise bevel angle. The motor mount and blade controls on this saw are very sturdy, without much play, which translates to a good-quality cut. Extending the fence for a wide rip requires a bit of effort on this saw, since the rails are stiff. All in all, this is a great saw for the price.

Saws under $450: Rockwell has a right-tilting motor

Rockwell RK 7241S

This saw has a motor that tilts the opposite way from most table saws for bevel cuts. Cost: $440

Rockwell diverged from the crowd with this offering. For starters, the riving knife, anti-kickback pawls and blade guard are connected and remove as a unit. If you do remove them to make a non-through cut, you have to install the separate riving knife first. It’s not difficult, just different. This is the only saw with a right-tilting motor. We prefer left-tilting motors because it’s safer to make bevel cuts with the fence on the right side of the blade. There’s no port for attaching a vacuum cleaner, but there’s a large dust bag that does a good job of collecting sawdust. This saw cuts 3-9/16 in. at 90 degrees, 1/16 in. more than the next closest competitors, allowing you to rip a 4×4 in one pass. And like the Ryobi saw, it has a 30-in.-wide rip capacity.

Saws under $450: Ryobi has a sturdy stand

Ryobi RTS30

This saw has many fine features including a sturdy stand, all at a low price. Cost: $299

There’s a lot to like about this saw. The stand is easy to set up and very sturdy. We like the smooth-operating table extension and the blade guard’s hold-up feature and ease of installation. The only downside we found is that the motor mount is less rigid than those on the other saws we tested. We suspect that’s why the cut quality on our torture test was not as good with this saw.

Saws above $500: Bosch sets a standard for quality

Bosch 4100-09

This saw has many fine features including a great fence, blade guard and stand. Cost: $599

When you get to the $500-and-above price range, you can’t really go wrong. The following three saws offer great performance and features.

The Bosch table saw sets a standard for quality, and we highly recommend it. The stand is easy to set up and has the best wheels of the bunch. We give the blade guard on this saw the easiest to install award. And the fence locks down perfectly every time.

Like the other saws in this price range, the Bosch has a soft-start motor that’s been geared to run a little slower for better torque. It’s the only saw with a built-in arbor lock for easier blade changes. The saw with the stand is 38 in. high, a few inches taller than the other saws. If you’re tall, you may prefer this.

Saws above $500: DeWalt has top-end features

DeWalt DW744XRS

This saw also has many fine features, including an easy-to-move fence that stays perfectly parallel to the fence.

This saw/stand combination is the most expensive of the group. But you get some top-end features. The first thing you’ll notice is the stand with its splayed legs that have no wheels in the setup position. You can’t wheel it around, but man is it sturdy, which is great if you’re ripping sheets of plywood or long, heavy boards. Another unique advantage of this stand is that you can easily remove the saw. That makes the saw easy to transport and to use without the stand. But our favorite feature is the patented rack-and-pinion fence that stays perfectly parallel to the blade and is super easy to adjust. If you can afford to spend a little more, we think the DeWalt is hard to beat.

Saws above $500: Ridgid has the most versatile miter gauge

Ridgid R4510

This saw also has many fine features including a versatile miter gauge and a fence designed for easily mounting accessories. Cost $499

The Ridgid stand is similar to the Bosch stand, but with slightly lower-quality wheels. The fence glides smoothly and locks down securely. The fence is the longest of the group and has T-slots on the sides and top for mounting accessories like featherboards.

The continuous-read, tape measuretype scale is ingenious and easy to read, and Ridgid’s lifetime warranty covers it against breakage. The Ridgid saw has the most versatile miter gauge with holes and slots for mounting extensions and accessories. The designers have cleverly fashioned the stand to also serve as a left-side outfeed support for ripping plywood.

Whether you work in construction or in a wood shop, plywood is a material you can’t avoid. I’ve used it outdoors to sheath roofs and walls, indoors for subfloors and room dividers, and in the shop for multiple cabinet and furniture projects.

Obviously, the plywood you use to make a custom cabinet must be a higher grade than what you use for roof sheathing. But what does the lumber industry mean by “grade,” what are the different grades, and what are they used for?

“Plywood is graded through four main levels, A, B, C and D,” says Josh Kou, a lumber pro with a lifelong interest in hardwood.

Grade A is the top grade, and it’s perfect for cabinetry and furniture making. Grade D is at the bottom of the scale. According to Artem Kropovinsky, an interior designer with more than a decade of experience, Grade D is “used for structural purposes where the surface will be hidden.”

Intermediate grades are suitable for some cabinetry projects (mostly Grade B) and other utility purposes (Grade C).

Here’s the lowdown on plywood grading to help you choose the right material for your project.

About the Experts

Josh Kou is a second-generation lumber pro who traveled extensively through Asia learning woodworking techniques. He’s the operations manager for NorthCastle Hardwoods.

Artem Kropovinsky is an interior and cabinet designer and the founder of NYC-based Arsight. His designs have been featured in Architectural Digest, The New York Times, Forbes, Business Insider and Domino. He has extensive knowledge of plywood and its uses.

What Is Plywood?

Slice wood from a tree trunk in thin layers, glue them together in alternating directions, and you’ve got plywood.

“Almost all plywood in the U.S. is made from either Douglas fir or western larch, both of which are softwoods,” says Kou. “However, Grade A plywood is often finished with a hardwood veneer. It is an affordable and sustainable way to present hardwood.”

Plywood comes in sheets measuring four by eight feet (1,220 x 2,440 millimeters), in thicknesses ranging from 1/4-in. (6-mm) to 1-3/16-in. (30-mm).

Because wood layers are glued in cross directions, plywood is more stable than solid wood and rarely warps or buckles. This makes it a good alternative to solid wood for construction and cabinetry, and often the preferred material.

What does RTD stand for on plywood?

RTD stands for “Resistance Temperature Detector.” Manufacturers monitor the temperatures of each layer during production of RTD plywood, ensuring a more reliable glue bond and a better-wearing final product.

What is marine grade plywood?

A product where manufacturers use a waterproof adhesives and wood preservatives to make highly moisture-resistant sheets. The veneer may be a hardwood or softwood, and it must be free from defects.

As the name suggests, boat builders use this type of plywood. Contractors like it for sheathing and subfloors in areas subject to excessive moisture.

What is exterior grade plywood?

Identified by the rating X, this product is also moisture-resistant. But manufacturers use lower-grade adhesives to produce it, and the softwood veneer may have knots and other defects.

Plywood Grades Explained

The four plywood grades are as follows:

• Grade A: “This is top-tier,” says Kropovinsky, “with a smooth, sanded surface free of knots. Ideal for visible surfaces in cabinetry or furniture.”
• Grade B: Slightly lower quality than Grade A. Grade B may have minor blemishes but still offers a good, smooth surface for painting or veneering. “It’s not top drawer,” says Kou, “but it’s perfectly serviceable.”
• Grade C: This grade comes with noticeable defects and knots up to 1-1/2-inches. According to Kropovinsky, it’s suitable for structures that require strength but don’t have to look good.
• Grade D: The lowest grade, with knots and defects up to 2-1/2-inches. Grade D is generally used for structural purposes where the surface will be hidden. Kou recommends Grade D when “it doesn’t matter what it looks like as long as it can roll with the punches and take a beating in transit.”

Plywood sub-grades

Both sides of a sheet don’t always have to be the same quality, because in many applications only one side is visible. Here’s Kou’s rundown of uses for the most common sub-grades:

• AA: Sanded and defect-free on both sides and suitable for interior work, like furniture, cabinetry and any other application where a good finish is required.
• AAX (AA Exterior): Use for sign boards, boxing, boats and any other exterior use where a high level of finish is required to both faces of a panel.
• AB: Perfect when only one side of the finished product needs to have a top-quality finish. Sometimes used in cabinetry as drawer bases with the A-graded side face up. This is my most common choice for a cabinet material.
• ACX: Perfect for areas exposed to high levels of moisture where a smooth surface is required for practical, or cosmetic reasons. ACX is most commonly found in soffits under your roofline, in truck and boxcar linings, farm buildings and commercial refrigerators.
• BB: A standard utility grade for everyday internal use that can be paint-finished. You’ll find a few minor repairs to the face using patches or wood filler and a few tight knots. I’ve made perfectly serviceable cabinets and furniture from this stuff.
• BBX: A good solid workaday board ideal for many external applications like shed and barn walls. There’s a pre-oiled version for concrete forms that can be cleaned and reused.
• BCX and BDX: These make good truck linings and tanks, and builders use it as a base for exterior coatings. Great as utility panels for industrial shelving where a decent top finish is required, or as bins where an interior finish is not important.
• CC: This is tough stuff. It’s used for flooring in boxcars, trucks, external decking, balconies, cable reels, shipping pallets and other utility applications.
• CDX: This is the most common roofing and exterior sheathing material. “It’s suitable for exterior use due to the adhesive used in its manufacture,” says Kropovinsky. The C side typically faces out.

What’s the best grade of plywood?

For quality, AA, but it really depends on the use. If you’re doing outdoor building, AAX, ACX and BCX are preferable.

What’s the most expensive plywood?

Again, that’s AA. A single 4- by 8-ft. sheet of 3/4-in. maple-faced plywood, sanded on both sides, costs almost $90. By contrast, a 3/4-in. sheet of utility-grade CDX plywood costs less than $60.

What is cabinet grade plywood?

For clear finishing, any plywood with one A-grade face is suitable for cabinets. For painting or veneering, you need at least one B-grade face.

What is furniture grade plywood?

Same answer. You need at least one A-grade face for clear finishing and one B-grade for paint or veneer. For exterior furniture, use AAX, ACX or BCX.

Choose a stain

You have four general options for staining furniture, each with certain benefits:

• Water-based stain: This kind is beginner-friendly because it cleans up easily with water, dries in two to four hours and creates fewer fumes. Consider this for low-traffic pieces (i.e., things that won’t be touched a lot).
• Oil-based stain: Best for high-traffic areas, like table tops and cabinet fronts, because it offers thicker, stronger coverage. It requires mineral spirits for clean-up and takes four to six hours to dry.
• Oil-based gel stain: This is an intensely pigmented stain, recommended for hard-to-stain woods like maple, poplar and veneers. Requires mineral spirits for clean-up and six to eight hours of dry time.
• Hard wax oil stain: A new, slightly higher-priced stain that allows the wood to more fully absorb the finish in just one coat, with no topcoat required. Kreps swears by it, Rubio Monocoat in particular. It’s best on finer woods like walnut and mahogany to let the natural beauty of the wood show through. Mineral spirits clean-up with a 24-hour dry time.

As a builder and flooring installer, I’ve learned the benefits of oriented strand board (OSB) and have often used it as a cost-effective alternative to plywood for sheathing and subfloors. The material works well in many situations and applications, but I can tell you one instance in which I’m convinced OSB doesn’t work: as interior wall paneling.

The previous owner of a home I flipped in Colorado thought the chaotic appearance of OSB worked as a feature in the living room. To my eye, however, it made the room look and feel like a workshop. But not everyone would agree!

“It really depends on the specifics of your project and what matters most to you,” says interior designer Elizabeth Vergara when asked if OSB looks good in a home setting. “I mainly work with luxury apartments and residential homes. Most of my clients are open to splurging on premium quality items to achieve a luxury aesthetic.”

OSB wall paneling, in other words, does not equal luxury. On that score, I couldn’t agree more. The real value of OSB is in its structural integrity. Building codes, the Engineered Wood Association, architects and most builders rate plywood and OBS sheathing as equal in strength and durability. There’s no doubt that plywood, with its smooth face, looks better than OSB. Looks aren’t everything, though.

About the Expert

• Elizabeth Vergara has been helping homeowners design and renovate their upscale homes for over 13 years. After starting a professional career with a prestigious construction and architecture firm in New York City, she started her design-and-build company, Vergara Homes.

OSB vs. Plywood Characteristics

What Is OSB?

Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is a structural, engineered wood panel now used for about 70 percent of all floor, wall and roof sheathing in North America. It’s available in 4-foot wide sheets that are eight to 16 feet long and with thicknesses that vary from 1/4 in. (6.5 mm) to 1 1/8 in. (28.5 mm).

How Is OSB Made?

Manufacturers produce OSB by tightly pressing together rectangular wood strands in crisscross patterns and combining them with glue or resin under high heat. According to the Engineered Wood Association (known by the acronym APA, since it used to be called the American Plywood Association), the manufacturing process produces “a solid panel product of consistent quality with no laps, gaps, or voids.”

What Is OSB Used For?

OSB is primarily a structural material; builders mainly use it for wall and roof sheathing and subfloors. It also has several utility uses, including trailer liners and flooring for recreational vehicles. Some people even use it to make furniture, cabinets and even wall paneling.

How Much Does OSB Cost?

OSB is generally cheaper than plywood. Depending on thickness, a 4 X 8 sheet costs between $15 and $43.

Building With OSB

Should I Run OSB Horizontally or Vertically?

When installing OSB on a subfloor, the strength axis (the longer edge) should run perpendicular to the supporting framing. Vertical or horizontal is acceptable when installing it as sheathing unless a designer or engineer specifies a certain direction.

Which Side of OSB Should Face Up?

OSB has a rough, unfinished side and a smooth side with a thin, moisture-resistant finish. When installing on a roof or subfloor, the rough side should be facing up to provide traction for walking. When installed on walls, the smooth side should face the studs and the rough side should face out. Sheets are usually marked on one side with a stamp that says “This Side Down.”

Pros and Cons of OSB

Pros

Most builders rate plywood and OBS equal in strength and durability, but OSB does have some advantages over plywood:

• It has a textured, slip-resistant surface, which makes it safer to install on roofs.
• It often comes with pre-scribed lines at 16- and 24-inch intervals, which makes it easy to locate underlying studs and rafters for nailing.
• Unlike plywood, which may have overlapping knots that undermine its strength, OSB is free of laps, gaps and voids.
• OSB is available in longer sheets, which minimizes the number of joints that can leak.
• OSB is manufactured from small, fast-growing trees, which makes it a sustainable forest product.

Cons

• Besides appearance, the main disadvantage of OSB is that the edges tend to swell when they get wet and remain swollen even after drying out. This results in ridges that can “telegraph” through shingles and even carpets when you use OSB as a subfloor.
• OSB tends to be heavier than plywood. A 4X8 sheet of 3/4-inch sheet of OSB weighs 78 pounds while a comparable sheet of plywood weighs only 67 pounds.

What Is Plywood?

Plywood is another type of structural engineered wood panel. It comes in four-by-eight-, nine- and 10-foot sheets that range in thickness from 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) to 1 1/4 in (31.75 mm). It’s available in many appearance grades, “ranging from smooth, natural surfaces suitable for finish work to more economical grades used for sheathing,” according to the APA.

How Is Plywood Made?

The APA explains that plywood is “manufactured from thin sheets of cross-laminated veneer and bonded under heat and pressure with strong adhesives.” The inner sheets are typically obtained from softwoods such as fir and pine. The face sheets may be softwood or a more decorative hardwood species.

What Is Plywood Used For?

Because of its smooth surface, plywood has decorative and structural value. As Vergara puts it: “If you’re into the look of things, plywood tends to win on the aesthetics front with its smoother surface.” Lower grades of plywood are suitable for sheathing, subfloor and other construction purposes, while higher grades are used for cabinetry, wall paneling and other interior design applications.

How Much Does Plywood Cost?

A sheet of plywood will set you back more than a comparable sheet of OSB, but the actual cost is highly dependent on grade, which ranges from A (cabinet grade) to D (utility grade). Plywood prices range from $4.50 to $10 per square foot.

Why is plywood more expensive than OSB?

Plywood is manufactured according to more exacting standards than OSB, and the raw materials are generally sourced from high-quality logs. On the other hand, the wood chips used to make OSB come from smaller-diameter, faster-growing trees, and some may come from recycled materials.

Pros and Cons of Plywood

Pros

• Because it comes in decorative as well as utility grades, plywood has more uses than OSB. Higher grades can be stained and finished just like wood.
• The smooth face of plywood makes a better subfloor surface for laying tiles.
• Plywood tends to be about 10 percent stiffer than OSB and is better at holding nails.

Cons

• Plywood can delaminate when exposed to moisture for a prolonged period.
• When left in the rain, unused plywood sheets can warp.

OSB vs. Plywood: Which Is Better?

The main reason for choosing OSB is the cost. Its lower price can generate big savings in a large construction project. For example, as sheathing and subfloor materials, plywood and OSB are essentially equivalent, but the lower cost of OSB makes it more cost-effective in those areas.

When it comes to cabinetry, furniture and other designer uses, the smooth face of plywood is the preferred material.

FAQ

Can you mix OSB and plywood?

Mixing OSB and plywood in the same application generally isn’t recommended. Sheet thicknesses aren’t always the same, making it difficult to match edges and get leak-proof seams.

OSB vs. Plywood: Which is more water-resistant?

Plywood absorbs moisture faster than OSB, but it also dries out more quickly, and it isn’t prone to edge swelling.

OSB vs. Plywood: Which warps more?

Because it’s manufactured from full sheets of veneer, plywood tends to warp more than OSB, but this tendency decreases with the increasing number of alternating layers.

Sources

• APA – Engineered Wood Association: Oriented Strand Board (OSB)
• APA – Engineered Wood Association: Plywood

If it wasn’t possible to spray paint wood, I might have spent several years of my life unemployed, because that was my main job from my late-20s to mid-30s. During that time I worked at two furniture finishing companies before I ran my own spray booth operation.

So if you’re asking, “Can you spray paint wood?” the answer is a definite yes. But should you? That’s another story altogether.

While it’s almost always better to spray paint on wood than brush it on, a lot can go wrong. You can mix the paint too thin or too thick, resulting in drips or splotches. You can paint things you didn’t intend to paint, including yourself. And, depending on the paint and whether you protect yourself properly, you could inhale toxic fumes.

There’s also the issue of equipment. If you’re painting a small piece like a chair or small cabinet, aerosol cans work well. But if you’re painting large pieces or exterior woodwork, or doing production work, you’ll need to buy or rent a sprayer and keep it clean. You’ll also need masking supplies, dropcloths, protective clothing and personal protective equipment (PPE).

It’s all worth it if you’re after a top-notch paint job, and you may even save time on large jobs. It’s up to you to decide whether doing the job with a paint brush and roller might be more practical.

Considerations for Spray Painting Wood

Spray-painting projects aren’t all the same. Some call for controlled conditions like a spray booth, and some call for a particular type of sprayer.

Here are some of the main things to think about if you’re considering spray painting wood:

Type of sprayer

If you’re painting furniture, you’ll get best results with a fast-drying lacquer or enamel, and many are solvent based.

The best choice for these materials is a high-volume, low-pressure (HVLP) sprayer, which requires an air compressor. If you’re painting wood interior or exterior walls or woodwork with water-based latex paint, an airless sprayer that pumps paint at high pressure is a better call. Here are a few tips for interior painting with a sprayer.

Consider a handheld airless sprayer. These offer a reasonable compromise between air sprayers and high-volume airless ones house painters use. They can spray pretty much any material. But the flow is more difficult to control, so they aren’t the best choice for a high-quality furniture finish.

Temperature and humidity

High-humidity and low-temperature conditions cause fast-drying furniture lacquers and enamels to retain moisture and turn cloudy, a condition called blushing. Latex paint dries more slowly in these conditions, and it may drip if you spray it in thick coats. High temperatures and low humidity are better for spraying.

Mixing

When you use a brush and roller, you can apply paint straight out of the can. But you usually need to thin paint before spraying, especially when using an HVLP sprayer.

You need to know which type of thinner to use and mix it in the right proportion. Because you often determine the proportion by trial and error, you need a test surface to practice on say. a piece of cardboard or plywood.

Overspray and fumes

Solvent-based furniture finishes are high in volatile organic compounds (VOCs), so you need to keep the room where you’re working well ventilated and wear a respirator, not just a dust mask.

Overspray isn’t a huge issue with these paints. Fast-drying finishes atomize when shot from an HVLP sprayer, and the material that doesn’t hit the spot you’re aiming for usually turns to dust.

Latex paint shot from an airless sprayer also creates fumes, although they aren’t quite as toxic. The overspray remains in liquid form and will stick to anything in the vicinity you haven’t covered.

Prepping Wood for Spraying

By itself, spraying goes quickly, but masking surrounding surfaces can be time-consuming. You’ll also need protective clothing, especially when spraying latex paint, which can get messy.

When spraying outdoors, be mindful of surrounding plants and walkways and be sure to cover them. The last thing you need is a rose bush that’s the same color as your house.

Before spraying any type of wood, make sure it’s clean and mold-free, and its finish is in good shape and won’t peel. Otherwise, you’ll need to strip the finish before spraying.

Sanding is a necessary prerequisite to spraying furniture or interior woodwork. The amount of sanding and the sandpaper grit you use depends on the quality of finish you’re after. Sanding to 120-grit is usually sufficient for shelves and woodwork. For tables, cabinets and other quality woodwork, it’s better to sand to 150- or even 220-grit.

Sealing Bare Wood

To get the quality of finish spraying makes possible, you’ll need to seal bare wood before adding topcoats.

For interior woodwork or furniture, a lacquer-based sanding sealer is best, because it contains soaps that make it easy to sand smooth. If you’re going to apply latex paint with an airless sprayer, a shellac-based primer provides the best undercoat, but water-based ones are also OK.

You’ll get the best furniture finish by spraying multiple coats and scuff-sanding between coats with 220-grit sandpaper. Solvent-based interior finishes dry quickly, so you can usually spray several coats in a single afternoon.

Polywood

Indiana-based Polywood specializes in high-end outdoor furniture made of recycled plastic containers. With more than three decades of experience, they were producing sustainable furniture long before the concept hit the mainstream.

Megan Pierson, Polywood’s senior vice president of business development, offers this tip for those searching for a sustainable furniture company: “Evaluate what products are made with, how they’re made and where they’re made. Look for transparency around these questions while searching for brands that are working toward a sustainable future.”

Polywood’s furniture is made in a 99% waste-free facility and comes with a 20-year warranty. “The true value of furniture is measured over time,” Pierson says. “Having a mindset that furniture is a long-term investment is one of the most sustainable choices we can make. It leads us toward consciously crafted forever furniture instead of fast furniture that’s replaced every few years.

Polywood has a history of delivering on the promise of sustainability. The winner of the Sustainable Furnishings Council’s Green Award, Polywood offers everything from $250 Adirondack chairs to $1,600 outdoor dining sets.

The allure of old furniture comes partly from imagining its story, who used it and what they were doing. Sometimes those questions actually get answered.

While refinishing a chest of drawers with a butler drawer, antique restorer Marshall Young found a photo of a young man, the father of the person who brought it in. “Our customer was amazed at the transformation of the chest, and said he remembered his father sitting there, worrying over the bills,” says Young. “When we showed him the photo we found, he broke into tears.” Want to restore your old table? Here are a few tips for refinishing a table. As a bonus, here are tricks on how to fix an old wobbly chair!

Restoring antiques is satisfying for many reasons, but can also be expensive. Here is the cost of reupholstering a couch. So when deciding if a particular piece of furniture is worth restoring, take into account its resale value plus intangibles, like your personal connection with the piece.

“Beauty is in the eye of the beholder,” says Peter Triestman of Olek, Inc., an antique restoration company in Orange, New Jersey. “Because of this, some of your furniture decisions will probably be based largely on aesthetics and nostalgia. But also consider the environmental costs of buying new and disposing of the old. Virtually any wood piece is restorable, but the older the piece, the more repairable it is.”

Also, check how to decide which furniture is worth keeping andhow to get rid of unwanted furniture.

Can I DIY Antique Furniture Repair?

Is antique furniture repair something that an intrepid DIYer can handle? Sometimes.

“Most pieces could just use a good cleaning and possibly an application of paste wax,” says Young, who runs Astonish Restoration in Roanoke, Virginia.

Other times, it’s more complicated.

With larger repairs, like loose chairs, it’s vital to put them back together in the same way they were made. “There should be no reason to attach screws, straps, wire, fiberglass or gum yes, we have seen repairs attempted with chewing gum,” says Young. That’s because the furniture was designed with the technology of the day, and altering that will cause more structural harm than good. You need to know how to reupholster a chair correctly to restore it fully.

Glue is another sticking point. Besides scraping off old adhesives before applying new ones, it’s crucial to learn what was commonly used in that period and apply a similar type. According to all three experts, epoxy, superglue, and foaming polyurethane usually aren’t the best options.

Before launching into any antique restoration project, research techniques and materials and practice on some yard sale specials.

“And pick up a bunch of antique tools,” Triestman says. “They’re cheap and last forever.” When in doubt, ask a pro’s opinion first.

Should I Restore This Piece of Old Furniture?

According to Triestman, Young and Freddy Roman of The Furniture Repair Shop, in Acton, Mass., here is what to consider when contemplating a furniture restoration project. Before you send your old furniture to the landfill, check out these inspiringupcycling furniture ideasfor cabinets, chairs, sofas, and more!

Oh if you’re wondering what to do with that old sofa, rocking chair, or desk? Check this collection of options to know where to donate furniture.

Wooden antique furniture

To tell if a piece is an antique rather than a 20th-century reproduction, look at the drawers. If the dovetails are of uneven width, Triestman says, then it’s a true antique.

“Right now true antiques, those 200 years or older, are going for a bargain, high end or not,” says Roman. “The prices of antiques makes you wonder why people are buying factory-made furniture.” Don’t want to restore it? Here’s how to get rid of old furniture.

Caned and wicker furniture

“Hand-caned and woven seats can be very expensive,” says Young. “But again, sometimes the sentimental value wins out over the market value.”

These can be less expensive if the restoration is done with machined cane sheets. Otherwise, Young says, “It can be hard to find craftspeople who are still hand caning and weaving. But it is something one can learn to do themselves, if interested.”

If you do try your hand at it, Triestman suggests adding a tablespoon of glycerine per bucket of water before soaking the caning. That keeps it supple.

Veneer furniture

“Veneer gets a bad name, but really, veneer is amazing and showcases the beauty of the woods in the world,” says Roman.

Assessing it means considering the substrate the veneer is on, as well as how thick the veneer itself is. “Many historic antiques have plenty of veneer of great thickness that a restorer can repair, or even a DIYer with patience and understanding,” says Roman.

Make sure to buy the appropriate cut of veneer. Try to cut pieces with matching grain lines to the existing furniture. And, Triestman says, be sure to scrape out the old glue with a chisel before inlaying the new elements.

Upholstered furniture

DIYing any upholstery is tricky unless you have exceptional sewing skills. It’s also expensive.

“Upholstered pieces are a lot of work, compared to cheap prices to buy mass-produced pieces today, and generally have little value when done unless from a noted designer,” says Triestman. But once reupholstered, a piece should last longer than contemporary furniture. Here are a few tips to rescue and reupholster your office chair.

Bent plywood furniture

Typically, bent plywood pieces must be taken to a professional. To figure out if it’s worth it, assess the quality of construction and stress the chair or table to see whether it’s splitting apart within the layers.

“If it is, that indicates that the glue is failing, and will progress rapidly with use,” says Triestman. “It’s not possible to put new glue over the old. It won’t hold.”

Mid-century modern furniture

“Right now, the clean simple lines of less-is-more is appealing to folks,” says Roman. To better understand a particular piece’s value, he recommends researching the big makers of mid-century and Danish modern furniture. “But that said, seeing a rosewood piece often tells you this piece is quality,” he says.

Painted furniture

“There is often more value under the paint,” says Roman. “It’s amazing what people paint these days. There are still treasures out there waiting to be found. And everything can be repaired. It’s wood, and it grows on trees.”

And there’s always a chance the repair will unearth a lost gem of humanity. It’s why flipping furniture can be a fun hobby or past-time for many.

“My favorite stories are all of the fun things we find inside pieces, or maybe written on them,” says Young. “We had a small table that was our customer’s when she was a little girl. We found on the bottom where she had written, ‘I am so mad at mommy. She won’t let me go over to Patti’s. But I love my daddy!’ ”

Cat Furniture: Hammock bunk beds

Got more than one cat? Then why not make these ingenious bunk bed hammocks so they can have their own space but still be together? This bunk bed set consists of a simple wooden frame that doubles as scratching posts, and roomy fabric hammocks suspended on ropes. It’s almost like a cat condo. Either way it’s some super cool cat furniture. And you can add some decorative knotsour video tutorial shows you how. These hammocks are simple to make, elegant and give your cats all the space they need for snoozing.

Fit a New Bottom Panel

• To start, attach a new plywood base.
• I predrilled 16 holes in 1/4-in. Baltic birch plywood and spread the glue evenly with a glue spreader.
• Then I screwed the plywood to the old bottom with 3/4-in. wood screws.
  • Pro tip: I did this step first because the console had to be upside down, and I needed to repair the top later anyway.

Choose biscuit size and adjust biscuit joiner

• Select the biscuit size you need based on the thickness of the wood you’ll be joining. For wood 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch thick, I like #20 biscuits. For material 3/8 inch thick, #10 or #0 biscuits work better.
• Rotate the numbered adjustment knob on your biscuit joiner to the number matching the size of your biscuits.
• Rotate the small knob on the top of your biscuit joiner to adjust the height of the cutter. Locate the cutter as close as possible to the center point of your workpiece, so the groove you’ll be plunging ends up in the middle. Use your workpiece as a reference.

Generally speaking, a construction material is sustainable if you can produce and dispose of it with minimal impact on the environment. And rather than having only two possibilities it is or it isn’t sustainability is a nuanced characteristic that takes a number of factors into account.

Wood is generally considered a sustainable building material, but some types are more sustainable than others. Take our property, thick with redwood and tan oak trees. Both produce usable lumber, but that’s where the similarity ends.

To harvest one redwood, you need permits, expensive heavy equipment and specialized labor, and that tree won’t be replaced by a new one for 50 to 100 years. On the other hand, a single worker can fell an oak tree that’s easier to mill, and a replacement will grow back in 10 to 20 years. So oak lumber is more sustainable than redwood.

Building materials don’t have to be new and innovative to be sustainable. Wood is one example of a sustainable material that people have been using forever. However, many sustainable products on the market today are the products of innovation, offering exciting new possibilities for builders and homeowners alike.

What Are Sustainable Materials?

Sustainable materials are also sometimes called green materials. All have these characteristics to varying degrees:

• They come from natural resources that are plentiful or which regenerate in a short time;
• A minimal amount of energy is required to obtain and process them, with minimal environmental impact;
• They include recycled materials, and/or they themselves can be recycled;
• They’re non-toxic;
• They’re durable and last a long time;
• They come from the general region where they’re used.

When you consider all these qualities together, some materials that seem sustainable aren’t as green as they first appear. Concrete is made from easily sourced and abundant natural materials, but Portland cement processing consumes large amounts of energy while creating waste and pollution.

Another example: Some types of composite decking boards may be made from recycled plastic, but they aren’t recyclable themselves, so that plastic eventually winds up clogging landfills anyway.

These examples aside, there are plenty of building and design materials on the market that score highly on the sustainability scale. More are becoming available every day.

Sustainable Building Materials

Wood will always be a sustainable option for structural uses, and poured concrete is also a more or less sustainable. But there are alternatives for both.

Engineered wood

Rather than making beams, sheathing and other structural members from solid wood, it’s less wasteful to laminate smaller planks to make glulam (glue laminated) beams or cross-laminated timber sheets (CLT) like plywood for floors, roofs and walls. The laminations give the product extra strength and resistance against warping.

Concrete slabs

Precast concrete slabs are factory-formed and shipped in bundles to be assembled on-site. The overall process is easier and less expensive than building forms and pouring concrete. Concrete is durable with good insulation value, making the slabs suitable for foundations, walls and floors.

Natural clay

A time-tested material, natural clay is abundant, long-lasting and cheap. Mix it with straw to make cobb or adobe bricks. You can pack clay into a pre-assembled frame or use it as a covering for bricks or cinder blocks walls.

Recycled plastic

Combining recycled plastic with wood fibers to produce polymeric timbers (composite wood) is one way to solve the ever-growing problem of plastic waste. Another way: Compressing the plastic into building blocks like RePlaststhat can substitute for concrete blocks.

Straw bales

Straw bales have seen a resurgence as a building material because they’re inexpensive, easy to use and locally sourced. They create well-insulated, durable structures that can withstand fires, earthquakes and hurricanes.

Sustainable Design Materials

Design materials include doors, windows, interior and exterior trim, flooring, wall coverings and furnishings.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel is extremely durable and can be recycled over and over again. It resists corrosion and some alloys are hypoallergenic, so it’s an ideal material for kitchen and bathroom fixtures. Production has a low environmental impact because most new stainless steel is made from recycled material, and electricity provides heat for smelting.

Bamboo

Bamboo is a grass that grows incredibly fast, and factories laminate strands to produce timber, flooring and even plywood. It’s possible to build an entire house, cover the floors and provide all the furnishings using only engineered bamboo products.

Cork

Cork scores highly on every criterion for sustainability. It’s easy to harvest, durable, hypoallergenic and grows back quickly, In the building trades, it’s most commonly used as underlayment for wood and laminate flooring, but it’s also available as standalone flooring tiles.

Reclaimed wood

Typically sourced from demolished old buildings, reclaimed wood finds its way into the home as flooring, interior trim and furniture.

New Sustainable Materials

Innovations focus on finding new uses for abundant materials, and reusing materials that would otherwise add to the world’s pollution problem.

Resin8

In 2021, the Center for Regenerative Design & Collaboration (CRDC Global) opened its first facility in the U.S. to produce Resin8, a concrete additive derived from recycled plastic. The company says it increases the integrity of concrete and asphalt while reducing plastic waste.

Ferrock

Ferrock is a cement substitute made from waste steel dust and recycled glass. When the steel dust reacts with carbon dioxide, it turns to iron carbonate, making a binder many times harder than Portland cement.

Because it absorbs carbon dioxide, it’s a carbon-negative material. But at present it isn’t suitable for large projects because it can only be produced in small quantities.

Mycelium-based building insulation

Mycelium is the underground fungal network where mushrooms sprout. Ecovative, a startup founded in 2007, has found a way to combine it with hemp another abundant, underused resource to make building insulation that works as well as fiberglass but is completely biodegradable.

Best Table Saw Blade for Crosscuts

Freud’s Diablo D1060X Table Saw Blade

Twelve stabilizer vents on the surface of the Freud’s Diablo D1060X Table Saw Blade reduce noise and vibrations, preventing wobbles and inaccurate cuts. It also features 60 teeth, making it ideal for performing crosscuts easily and effectively. A non-stick coating on the blade prevents wood pitch from gumming up this blade, reducing wear and tear and corrosion. Psst! Learn how to use paste wax for table saw lubrication.

Pros

• Very little tear-out
• Smooth results require less sanding

Cons

• You’ll want a ripping blade to complement it

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Best All-Around Adirondack Chair

Polywood, revered for its weather-resistant recycled-plastic “lumber,” nails the classic Adirondack look with no maintenance. Its classic Adirondack delivers with an unparalleled warranty of 20 years, multiple finish and color options.

If you’re looking for a variety of seat heights, design options and furniture add-ons, Polywood is the place, offering a master class on the classic American style.

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Buying a Folding Table

A folding table isn’t exactly an exciting purchase. But once you own one, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it.

Squeezing in the required extra seating for parties and holiday dinners becomes a non-issue with the right folding table. Grab it (or them) out of the closet or garage, set it up, set the table and you’re good to go.

Invest in a sturdy folding table you’ll use year after year. Says Nora Mitchell of Household Advice: “When I need to use a folding table, whether it be for a big event or just having extended family over for dinner, I need it to be durable, lightweight, easy to assemble and take down and not look too junky.”

Here’s what to look for in a folding table:

• Durability: Look for a high-quality plastic like polyethylene or polycarbonate.
• Legs: Steel legs with locking mechanisms ensure stability.
• Easy to carry: Many folding tables include a convenient carry handle.
• Assembly: You want legs that fold easily and pop into place without much force.
• Shape: According to Mitchell, there are benefits to round and rectangular tables. She says round tables mean no damaged corners, but rectangle tables hold more people.
• Appearance: You’ll most likely cover a folding table with a tablecloth at dinners and parties. So as long as it’s a good table, appearance shouldn’t be an issue. (Check out our design-forward pick below if you want something a little more stylish.)

Keep these shopping tips in mind while you browse our favorites. We’ve researched the highest rated tables and rounded up the best for every situation, from large gatherings at home to camping.

These days, the cost to hire a pro to spray paint a single room in a house hovers between $350 and $800, depending on room size, type of paint and other considerations. It’s no wonder more and more people are opting to do the job themselves. And with the equipment available today, DIY spraying is more doable than ever.

Spray-painting calls for skill, to be sure. But it’s an easy skill to acquire with practice, and you can do a great job even if your technique isn’t perfect.

You’ll hear the same thing from every painter, professional or not: The quality of the final results depend more on the time and attention you’re willing to put into preparation than on the actual application of the paint.

I was a professional spray painter for many years. Although I’ve moved on to writing, I still occasionally break out the equipment to help friends with their interior painting projects. Here are some of the things I do while planning a job, executing it and cleaning up.

Get Enough Paint

After you’ve decided which paint to use, check the label for the coverage. Most products cover about 400 square feet per gallon. That figure may be lower if you opt for an all-in-one paint and primer or some other high-solids product.

Next, take the time to accurately measure the wall and ceiling space you have to cover, subtracting the space occupied by doors, windows and cabinets. Finally, plan for two coats one is never enough and add five to 10 percent more paint to account for overspray.

Pro tip: If you buy paint in one-gallon cans, mix it in a five-gallon bucket to ensure color and sheen uniformity.

Clear the Room

Don’t assume your prized sofa will be safe if you simply cover it with a drop cloth. If overspray doesn’t get it, an accidental spill might.

Besides protecting your furniture, moving it out of the room gives you more space to work and prevents the scenario where you’re trying to reach a corner obstructed by a heavy object.

Use Canvas Drop Cloths

After all the furniture is gone, cover the floor and any items you couldn’t remove (like built-in cabinets) to protect them from overspray.

Definitely go with canvas drop cloths. They’re heavier than plastic or paper, and the edges won’t lift if you get too close with the sprayer. Most importantly, they absorb overspray rather than letting it form a slippery film on the surface.

Get a Masking Machine

A masking machine (aka a hand-masker) is a simple, inexpensive hand-held device with one roller for masking paper and another for masking tape. It automatically sticks the tape to the paper and to the wall as you draw the machine in a straight line.

This tool cuts in half the amount of time you spend masking off doors, windows and other obstructions.

Use the Right Sprayer

You’ll need an airless sprayer for painting interior walls. When I worked professionally, the only ones available came with a pump that extracted paint from a can. A high-pressure hose connected it to the spray gun.

These are still the best to use for large jobs. But if you’re only painting one room, consider a handheld airless sprayer. They’re really easy to use, especially cordless models, and they do just as good a job. The one drawback: The attached canister only holds a quart, so you must refill it frequently.

Pro tip: If you’re spraying interior woodwork with a clear finish, like varnish, consider renting an air sprayer (aka HVLP sprayer) and a compressor if you don’t have one already. An air sprayer creates a finer spray pattern than an airless one. The pattern is easier to control and leaves a more uniform, splotch-free finish.

Work Safely

Unless your idea of a good time is washing dried paint off your body, cover every square inch of yourself, including your head and hands. And don’t forget to wear goggles and a respirator.

Test Before You Spray

Keep a large piece of cardboard or scrap plywood handy to test the spray pattern before you start painting the walls. This way you’ll determine how far you need to overlap each stroke to prevent streaking.

You’ll also learn quickly if the paint needs to be thinned. If it does, the sprayer will spit it out in globs. Better to have that happen on a test surface than the wall.

Use the Right Spray Painting Technique

Spray in a vertical or horizontal pattern, overlapping each stroke by half with the next one.

Despite your best efforts, some streaks may remain. Don’t try to correct these by loading on more paint or you’ll get drips. If you can see streaks after you’re done, you need another coat. On large surfaces, avoid streaking by spraying in a crisscross pattern, first horizontally and then vertically, or vice versa. If it still doesn’t look good to you, then here’s how you can safely remove spray paint.

Pro tip: If you do get drips, wait for the paint to dry, then scrape off the drips with a razor. Don’t try to wipe them off while the paint is wet.

Clean Up To Prevent Clogs

It’s extremely important to clean your spray equipment after every use to prevent clogging.

Spray excess paint into a bucket, then run the appropriate thinner through the machine until the spray is clear. Finally, disassemble the sprayer and clean the parts separately.

Pro tip: An airless sprayer will apply oil- and water-based paints. But oil-based paints are high in VOCs, and painters seldom use them for interior painting. In some states, it’s illegal. You’ll probably clean up with water.

Assemble the bookcases

Assemble the bookcase and extension box according to the instructions provided by Ikea. I reinforced the back panel seam with duct tape and painted the bookcase backs ahead of time.

When painting Ikea furniture that is laminated, such as these bookcases, it is necessary to sand them with 150-grit sandpaper to provide some bite for the primer to adhere to and apply several coats of paint, anticipating the need to touch it up later.

Brown Paper Bag Finishing Trick

You can always make a finish smooth by rubbing with fine sandpaper and rubbing compounds, but that is a lot of work. And theres almost always a little dust that settles onto the last coat of finish before it dries, even when you spray fast-drying lacquer. And with slow-drying varnish, theres always dust stuck to the finish.

Unless you’re aiming for the ultimate in smoothness, rubbing the surface with a folded brown paper bag is usually sufficient. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finishas long as the finish is fully dry.As long as the dust isnt excessive and as long as the particles arent large, you can make the surface feel smooth with this paper bag trick.Youll be amazed at how well it works!

Check out these other 45 hugely helpful handy hints!

Avoid Ugly Hammer Marks

Nails are easier to drive if you take a full swing. But the downside is that if you miss the nailhead, you’ll leave a deep ‘elephant track’ in the decking. Use a 1/4-in. plywood cushion to protect the deck boards in case you miss with a hammer. It allows you to concentrate on nailing without worrying about denting the deck boards. Simply start the nail. Then slip a small square of 1/4-in. plywood over the nail and swing away. Remove the plywood for the last blow.

Woodworking encompasses many different tasks. What may be an essential tool for one woodworker may go dusty and unused in another’s shop. To a newbie, all these tool choices can be overwhelming.

But no matter what type of woodworking you’re interested in, there are some basic skills universal to all. Every woodworker needs to cut, drill, shape, fasten, measure and finish, and requires the right tools to accomplish each task.

We’ve rounded up some of the most common tools in each category, highlighting what they’re used for, and which tools are most essential. If you’re working on a budget, don’t buy tools, then go looking for ways to use them. Start by choosing projects you enjoy, then only buy tools germane to those projects.

A few notes before we begin:

• We’re focused here on woodworking, not carpentry. There’s a great deal of overlap between the two, but in general, a carpenter creates buildings and structures while a woodworker creates objects ranging from chairs to fountain pens. Many tools listed here are also used in carpentry.
• We haven’t included safety tools.
• Names for tools and materials vary by region. You may see a coping saw called a hand saw or dovetail saw, but it’s the same tool.

Woodworking Tools That Cut

Cutting wood is perhaps the most foundational step in woodworking. Whether you’re building furniture or wall art, every woodworker must cut wood along the grain (rip) and across the grain (crosscut).

While modern power tools make cuts with incredible speed and precision, almost all woodworking cuts can be made by hand. Even today, finely detailed cuts are best made with a quality hand saw.

Table saw

A table saw can be used to rip and crosscut, making it a versatile tool at the heart of many workshops. Because of its wide, flat tabletop, it’s also ideal for cutting large pieces of flat stock like plywood. If you want to test it out before investing in a full-size table saw, consider a portable jobsite version, which often has a much more DIY-friendly price tag.

Miter saw

A miter saw is a more focused tool that makes fast, accurate and easily duplicated crosscuts. If you often work with relatively narrow stock (six inches or fewer), a miter saw is a massive time saver.

Miter box

If you don’t do enough crosscuts to justify purchasing a miter saw, consider a miter box. Essentially it’s a manually powered miter saw, with a plastic or wooden frame and slots to guide a hand saw at predetermined angles. Miter boxes allow relatively quick cuts at a rock-bottom price.

Jigsaw

A jigsaw is perfect for cutting curves and circles in a wooden surface. Beginners sometimes shy away when they encounter “chatter” (rapid vibration). But with a little experience and patience, a jigsaw is a valuable asset in any woodworker’s tool collection.

Coping saw

A narrow-bladed coping saw is perfect for highly detailed work like coping joints (hence the name), as well as cutting intricate curves and dovetail joinery.

Band saw

A band saw‘s vertical blade splits stock in half and cuts curves. Because it’s large, the band saw stays still while the woodworker repositions the cutting material. If you’re trimming a 2×6 into two 1x6s, a band saw is far superior to running it through a table saw twice.

Scroll saw

A scroll saw is a smaller version of a band saw. With its more limited mouth opening, a scroll saw is intended for detailed work on smaller stock. If you’re doing fiddly details in thin wood, it works magnificently.

Circular saw

A circular saw is primarily a carpenter’s saw, but it also has its place in a woodworker’s tool collection. If you only make the occasional cuts in plywood, it’s often better use to break out a circular saw than invest the space and money in a full table saw.

Woodworking Tools That Drill

Drilling is an essential part of woodworking, whether it’s pilot holes for nails and screws or dowels to hold your work in place. Your tool choices include:

Cordless drill/driver

A few decades ago, a cordless drill was something of a luxury for a woodworker. Today, the many low-cost options on the market make it a must-have. Most woodworkers own a single drill/driver for boring holes and setting screws.

Drill press

Some holes need a level of precision that simply can’t be duplicated freehand with a cordless drill. In those instances, a drill press can make accurate and easily replicated holes.

Hand drill

A hand (manual) drill has become something of a specialty tool. However, its precision and ability to drill in minute increments can be extremely helpful for working with thin or valuable material.

Hole saws, spade bits, Forstners and other specialty bits

When boring holes, the drill is only part of the equation. Many woodworkers amass a collection of hole saws, spade bits, step bits, Forstners and other specialty bits.

Rather than spending money on a wide assortment all at once, it’s usually best to pick these up as needed. Trust us, before long you’ll find yourself with a surprising assortment.

Woodworking Tools That Shape

All kinds of tools can shape wood. Shaping can happen early or late in the project. In the case of wood carving and wood turning, it essentially is the project.

These woodworking tools shape:

Hand plane

This simple tool has been around for centuries, and it’s still one of the most effective. A well-cared-for hand plane that’s been carefully calibrated removes material quickly or in transparently thin layers. These come in lots of sizes and styles. For most beginner woodworkers, the Stanley six-inch block plane is a great start.

Orbital sander

An orbital sander makes life much easier when you’re ready to smooth out a wooden surface or hide unwanted blade marks.

Belt sander

A belt sandercan remove material extremely quickly. It’s such an aggressive tool you have to be careful not to overdo it.

Planer

A planer reduces the thickness of boards and makes them uniform. It’s a great tool if you’re buying rough lumber to save money. A planer ensures two opposite faces are even and parallel.

Jointer

A jointer is often used in conjunction with a planer. Jointers shape the length and edge of lumber, creating a clean right angle. If you’re laying pieces of lumber side-by-side say, for a table top a jointer will ensure the pieces fit snugly together.

Sandpaper

Because it gets used up and replaced, sandpaper can be considered a “material” instead of a tool. But it’s essential in the wood shop, so we included it here.

Sandpaper is especially good for detailed work or curved surfaces. Once the grit is gone, don’t hesitate to discard it. Don’t forget the old DIY saying, “Life is short, abrasives are cheap.”

Lathe

If you’re interested in wood turning, a lathe will be at the heart of your shop. There’s something magical about seeing a wood turner at work, with the wood chips flying and the completed item slowly emerging from the spinning material.

Chisel

A chisel shapes everything from hinge mortises to sculptures. While the size and shape depends on your specific needs, some sort of quality, well-sharpened chisel is essential for almost every type of woodworking.

Router

A router is great for changing the edge profile of your project. Whether you go with a palm router on shelving or a table router to make custom wood trim, there are a wide range of uses for this handy tool.

Files and Rasps

Hand files and rasps remove and shape wood. Files make smaller changes and smooth surfaces, while rasps remove layers of wood. Combo file and rasp tools allow the user to easily move between the two tasks.

Woodworking Tools That Fasten

Once you’ve got your wood in shape, you need to fasten it together. Woodworkers use these tools for fastening:

Hammer

A selection of hammers and mallets, along with nails and other fasteners, allow you to secure almost anything.

Pneumatic nailer

Pneumatic nailers are phenomenal tools if you expect to sink a lot of nails, or want a good multipurpose shop tool.

Drill/driver and screws

Screws are another great way to fasten wood together. You’ll use your drill/driver to sink screws and drill pilot holes to minimize splitting.

Stapler

Sometimes a staple is all that’s needed to hold workpieces together. Both manual and pneumatic staplers are especially helpful if you’re attaching upholstery to your project.

Pocket jigs

The most popular pocket hole jigs are by Kreg. Pocket holes are often used in furniture construction to hide fastener heads.

Biscuit joiners

Biscuit joiners essentially cut a narrow slot into two pieces of abutting wood, allowing a thin wooden oval (the biscuit) to be glued or set in place. In that way, they’re like a horizontal dowel.

Clamps

Whether holding pieces tight to allow glue to dry or stabilizing before drilling holes, most woodworkers feel they can never have enough clamps.

Woodworking Tools That Measure

“Measure twice, cut once” is sage advice for anyone working with wood. But measuring includes checking for square, checking for level and finding ways to make repetition easy.

Measuring is so important there are far more specialty tools than we list here, from calipers to try squares to moisture meters. Here are some of the most common woodworking measuring tools.

Tape measure

Found in almost every woodworker’s toolkit, a good tape measure is one of the most frequently used tools on this list.

Level

Levels are great for checking level and plumb. Longer metal levels often do double duty as a straightedge.

Combination square

A combination square is useful for planning cuts, but also vital for calibrating your machinery. Table and miter saws out of square or level will cause hours of frustration.

Speed square

Carpenters tend to favor a Speed square more than woodworkers, but these small and convenient tools are a good investment. If possible, opt for a metal square; plastic ones can warp in heat and are easily damaged in a rough and tumble work environment.

Jigs

A jig is a magnificent time saver, and can be used as a de facto measuring device. Jigs guide your tool to help you make identical cuts, curves or finishes, greatly reducing the measuring involved in each process.

Predesigned jigs are available, but most woodworkers find making their own allows for precise construction. If you’re making multiple identical cuts, even a single-project jig will often save more time than it takes to construct.

Woodworking Tools and Materials for Finishing

After you’ve done all the cutting, shaping and refining, don’t falter at the end! Use the same level of care to finish you project to ensure it’s something you’re proud of.

These woodworking tools are used for finishing:

Paints and stains

Every project has its own needs and every woodworker their own preferences for finish coats. Experiment with different brands and materials to find the products that give you the best results.

Brushes and rags

A collection of brushes and rags will make paint and stain application much easier. This is another area where personal preference comes into play. Try out different materials and brush types to find your favorites.

Tack cloth

Tack cloth is coated fabric used to wipe down surfaces between finish coats. Some woodworkers swear by them and others skip them entirely.

Keep dust out of your finish

Dust collection system: Don’t try to finish your project while sawdust and debris hang in the air. That gorgeous wet stain won’t look so good in a couple of hours when it’s littered with fallen sawdust. A dust collection system sucks all that dust out of the air as you’re working. This makes it easier to finish your projects, and it’s healthier for your lungs.

Shop vacuum: A dedicated workshop vacuum can be the power behind a dust collection system, or supplement a dedicated system. Either way, it helps keep your shop clean and your workspace a little less chaotic. A good shop vacuum also hooks up to the exhaust ports on various saws to minimize dust expulsion.

Overview

If you own a table saw, you know it works great for ripping long pieces. But did you know that you can crosscut wide pieces with the same ease and accuracy? Or make perfect 90- and 45-degree miter cuts on narrower boards? All it takes is a table saw sled. A table saw sled rides in the miter gauge slots and has a fence thats mounted exactly 90 or 45 degrees to the blade, enabling accurate square or 45-degree cuts. Well show you how to build a sled for each application, using a 42-in. square sheet of 1/2- or 3/4-in. plywood, particle board or MDF. Well tackle the crosscut sled first.

Table saw sled for 90-degree crosscuts

Crosscut sled

Make perfect 90-degree crosscuts every time with this simple table saw sled.

Step 1: Gather materials and cut the pieces

We used top-quality nine-ply birch for our crosscut sled, but any flat plywood with smooth faces will work. The tricky parts of the construction are cutting runners that slide smoothly in the tracks, and getting the fence perfectly square to the blade. We’ll show you how to accomplish both as you construct the sled.

Start by cutting strips of plywood for the stiffener, front fence and blade cover (Figure A). Cut them 1/4 in. wider and 1/2 in. longer than the finished size to allow for trimming. Then spread wood glue on the mating faces and clamp them together. Clamp them onto a perfectly flat surface like the top of your table saw. Try to keep the layers lined up as you clamp them. After about 20 minutes, scrape off the partially hardened glue. Then run the pieces through the table saw, removing about 1/4 in. Using Figure A as a guide, mark the shapes onto the pieces and saw them out with a jigsaw. Smooth the curves with a belt sander.

Step 2: Cut and assemble the runners and base

Photo 1: Fit the runner stock

Slide a hardwood board in the miter gauge slot on your table saw to check the fit. If it’s too tight, sand and plane it until it slides easily with no slop. Work on this while you’re waiting for the glue to set up on the fence blank (about a half hour).

Photo 2: Position the runners

Rest the runners on pennies to elevate the top edge above the surface of the saw. Apply a thin bead of wood glue down the center of the top of the runners.

Photo 3: Attach the runners

Glue the base to the runner, using the table saw fence to position it. Make sure the edge farthest from the fence overhangs the table saw at least 2 in. Set weights on the base until the glue dries.

Photo 4: Fine tune the runners

Sand the edges of the runners where they rub on the sides of the miter gauge slots. Dark spots indicate areas that need sanding.

The next step is to cut the runners from strips of hardwood. If you have standard 3/4-in.-wide miter gauge slots, sand or plane a 1×3 hardwood board until it slides easily in the slots (Photo 1). (For narrower slots, you’ll have to plane or cut the 1×3 to reduce its thickness.) Then rip strips from the 1×3 that are about 1/16 in. thinner than the depth of the slot. Photos 2 and 3 show how to attach the strips to the sled base. Let the glue set for about 20 minutes. Then remove the assembly from the table saw and scrape off excess glue from the edges of the runners and bottom of the base. You’ll also have to clean out any glue that has gotten into the slots on the table saw. Slide the sled back and forth in the slots. If the sled doesn’t slide easily, inspect the runners for darkened areas where the metal has rubbed on the wood. Use spray adhesive to attach a piece of 80-grit sandpaper to a square-edged block of wood and sand the darkened areas to remove a little wood (Photo 4). Repeat this process until the sled slides freely.

Step 3: Add the stiffener and square the fence

Photo 5: Square the fence

Square the fence with the blade. Raise the blade and press a framing square against it. Swivel the fence on a single screw in one end, and clamp the opposite end when the fence is square to the blade.

Photo 5A: Temporary clamp

Clamp one end until you check the fence for square (next step).

Glue and screw the stiffener to the front edge of the base, being careful to keep screws away from the path of the table saw blade. Then set the table saw blade to about 3/4 in. high and slide the base into the blade. Stop cutting when you get within 3 in. of the back of the base. Turn off the saw and let it come to a stop before removing the sled. Align the fence with the back edge of the base and drive a screw into the right end. Photo 5 shows how to square the fence to the saw blade and clamp it in place. Screw the blade cover to the back of the fence, being careful to keep the screws well away from the path of the blade.

Step 4: Test the fence for square

Photo 6: Make a test cut

Check the position of the fence by cutting a scrap of plywood. Flip one side over and butt the two pieces together. A gap means the fence isn’t square.

With the clamp firmly in place, set a 12-in. or wider scrap of plywood on the sled and cut it in two. Test the accuracy of the sled by flipping one side of the cut scrap over and pushing the freshly cut edge against the other half (Photo 6). If the two pieces fit perfectly with no gap, the sled is cutting squarely and you can drive three additional screws into the fence to hold it in place. Otherwise, tap the clamped end of the fence with a hammer to nudge the fence a bit. Then make another test cut. Repeat this process until the cut is perfect. Then add the screws.

Step 5: Add stop blocks

Photo 7: Install stop blocks

Install stops to prevent the blade from cutting through the blade cover.

Complete the sled by adding the stop blocks. With the blade half covered by the fence and blade cover, screw a block to the bottom of the sled. Use carriage bolts to attach another stop block to the table saw bed (Photo 7).

Table saw sled for 45-degree miter cuts

45-degree miter sled

This simple table saw jig for your makes 45-degree miters easy and perfect.

Magic miter sled

Anybody can cut a 45-degree miter by using a miter saw. But how about cutting eight precise 45-degree miters to create a perfect picture frame? If youve ever tried it, you know that task can be ticklish, frustrating and difficult.

One way to accomplish this seemingly impossible feat is to build a miter sled for your table saw. You can build this simple sled using nothing more than a half sheet of 1/2- or 3/4-in. plywood, particleboard or MDF, a few squirts of wood glue and a couple of full paint cans for glue-up weights. After you throw it together, youll be cutting perfectly matched miters for frames, furniture or trim in no time, without muss or fuss.

How it works

Heres the beauty of the system. We show you how to position the fence so its very close to perfect. But if its a little off, the table saw jig is self-correcting. Thats because you cut one miter on one side of the jig and its matching miter on the other side. So if your jig cuts at 46 degrees on the first side, itll cut at 44 degrees on the other.

Even though one of the miters will be a little longer than the other, its easy to sand off the excess so the difference will be imperceptible. But try to build the table saw jig as accurately as you can. This self-correcting business only goes so far!

Step 1: Build the base

Photo 1: Mount the base on the runners

Mark the center of the base. Add a thin line of glue to the runners and rest the base on the strips, aligning the center mark with the saw blade. Keep the runners and the miter base flush with the back of the saw table.

Photo 2: Square the base

Rest two paint cans on the table and use a rafter square and the miter gauge slots to square the miter table to the table saw. Let the glue set up for 20 minutes or so. Then give the sled a test slide. If it binds at all, flip it over, clean off any glue squeeze-out and use a sanding block to knock down the edges of the runners.

Photo 3: Cut a centerline

Cut a saw kerf about one-third of the way through the miter table. Turn off the saw and let the blade come to a stop. Youll use the kerf to line up the fence for the next step.

Our sled base is nothing more than a slab of MDF cut into a 24 x 18-in. rectangle as shown above. The only tricky part is cutting the runners to a width such that they dont wiggle or bind in the slots, and to a thickness so they project about 1/8 in. above the table (Photo 1). Rip them so they glide smoothly in the slots without binding or slop. Spend time on them. Theyre one of the main ingredients of an accurate sled.

Step 2: Add the fence

Photo 4: Glue on the first fence layer

Apply some glue to the fence blank and sled base. Line up the tip of the blank with the saw kerf and the two other corners with the back edges of the table. Clamp it in place with a paint can for 15 minutes.

Photo 5: Cut off the fence

Lift the sled out of the miter slots and turn it 90 degrees. Adjust the fence so it cuts off the overhanging fence. Use a strip of waste to support the edge of the sled, and cut off the overhanging triangle.

Photo 6: Top off the fence

Spread some glue on the fence and square up the edges, holding it down with another gallon can of paint until it sets up. After 15 minutes, youll be ready to cut a perfect picture frame!

Our fence is just a 16 x 16-in. square of MDF. Since the factory corner is 90 degrees, mounting it diagonally gives you accurate 45-degree angles for cutting the miters. After the square is glued on top (Photo 4), cut it in half (Photo 5) and stack the waste on top (Photo 6) so the edge of the fence becomes 1-1/2 in. thick and more suitable for cutting thicker material.

Project PDF Files

Click the links below to download the construction drawings, materials list and cutting list for this project.

CuttingandMaterials Listsand Construction drawings

Additional Information

• Figure A: Crosscut Table Saw Sled Pieces
• Figure B: Crosscut Table Saw Sled
• Cutting List
• Materials List
• Figure C: Miter Cut Table Saw Sled

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

Best Overall

Medley Dekayess Bumper Sectional in Latex + Wool

Medley is a US-based custom-design furniture company that pays attention to every detail, from the ordering process to construction and materials to delivery. When searching for a sectional that could best fit her space, Content Director Nicole Doster found that Medley had over 20 types of sectionals to choose fromranging from compact corner sectionals to gigantic U-shaped couches. I chose the Dekayess Bumper Sectional for its casual, but modern design, Nicole says. Medley allows you to customize almost every material on the couchfrom filling to fabric to color to leg shape and material.

What makes Medley unique (and our top choice) is their attention to detail in their craftsmanship. For my couchs filling, for example, I opted for their natural latex foam and wool, which is touted as their most sustainable and eco-friendly options, certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)and theGlobal Organic Latex Standard (GOLS), Nicole adds. As much of the new furniture on the market are made with toxic materials, it made me feel good that I was bringing something cleaner and safer into my home.

Nicoles couch was just over $6,800 with shipping and taxes, which we consider on the mid-to-high end of the price spectrum, though worth it for a custom design. (Monthly financing is available through Affirm.) Medley is a thoughtful company, and that is evident through their online ordering process. The site even has AR functionality that allows you to virtually view the couch in your space using your smartphone camera.Since the couches are made to order, the lead time was longer than couches youd find at a big box store. The couch we tested took a little under 60 days to arrive.

Weve had pricey couches from Restoration Hardware, budget-friendly from IKEAand even a few vintage brands found on Facebook Marketplaceand when I tell you that this seems like the sturdiest, most well-designed couch, I mean it, Nicole says.

Medley provides a white glove delivery through a third-party company. The only thing Nicole needed to ensure was that there was a space open for the sectional. The sectional she ordered had just two parts, which the delivery personnel connected in a matter of minutes. The deliverers were courteous and quickand even wore booties over their work shoes when entering our house to protect the flooring.

With a durable frame and no stitch out of place, it feels like how furniture issupposedto be made vs. slapped together in a big box store, Nicole adds.The natural latex cushion gave a level of comfort and structured support that has kept its shape, while the wool topper gives it a soft extra padding. While I dont feel like Im necessarily sinking into the couch, its comfortable and feels like something that can withstand the rough-and-tumble of our dog when he has the zoomies or a visit from our four young nieces, who notoriously like to climb and jump on everything.

Pros

• Durable craftsmanship thats made to last
• Customizable design
• Uses sustainable and natural materials
• Seamless white-glove delivery; no assembly required
• Easy to clean
• Made in the USA
• 5-year warranty on fabric and 10-year warranty on filling
• Frame has lifetime coverage

Cons

• Longer lead time as couches are made to order

Shop Now

Build a Mockup To Find the Best Position

Mock up the fireplace using the dimensions given in fireplace brochures and outline the hearth shape with masking tape. Your new fireplace will have a major impact on your room. Build a simple mock-up to get a feel for the amount of space it takes up and to see how the angled placement will affect furniture arrangement and traffic patterns.

When you’re satisfied with the aesthetics of the fireplace, turn your attention to the mechanical requirements. You’ll need to run a gas supply line for the fireplace. Call in a plumber to plan the route before you order the fireplace.

Most gas fireplaces don’t require electricity to operate. However, if you ever decide to add a blower to increase heat output or a hand-held remote control, you’ll have to connect the fireplace to an available electrical circuit, so run a wire to the fireplace while it’s accessible.

In addition, since electrical codes don’t allow you to simply cover a box that contains live wires, you’ll have to disconnect or relocate any boxes or receptacles that will be covered by the new fireplace.

Cleaner Clothes

Water coming from the cold water tap can be pretty chilly during the winter (or year-round if you have a well). According to washing machine manufacturers, if the water is colder than 65 degrees F, the additives in laundry detergent won’t work as welland powder detergents won’t fully dissolve. Cold water for washing should be in the 65- to 85-degree range or clothes won’t get completely clean.

To find out if your clothes are getting a good wash, check the water temperature with a cooking thermometer (one that registers low temperatures) when you do a cold, a warm and a hot wash. If the water temperature is below 65 degrees for cold water washes, boost it by selecting warm water for part of the initial fill cycle. If the warm water wash is below 85 degrees (a common problem during winter or when the washing machine is at the opposite end of the house from the water heater), try the hot water setting instead for all or part of the wash cycle. Or run the hot water tap into the laundry tub until it gets hot, then turn on the washer.

Always leave rinse settings on cold, no matter what washing temperature you choose. Cold water rinses are just as effective as warm water rinses, and you’ll save a lot of energy.

Best Laser Level

Craftsman Crossline Laser Level

According to our tests, the Craftsman Crossline Laser Level is one of the best tools when it comes to user-friendly laser levels. A single switch locks the pendulum, unlocks it for self-leveling or turns off the device completely. To use, simply find your desired height and flip the switch to unlock. The crosshairs will level themselves!

Itscompact size and budget price tag maketheCraftsman Crossline laser level a terrific addition for any homeowner, or a contractor who only needs a laser level occasionally. Its suitable and accurate for a long list of indoor projects and comes with a Craftsman limited lifetime warranty and a 90-day satisfaction guarantee.

Range: 36 ft. | Tripod Capable: Yes | Power Source: Rechargeable Lithium-Ion Battery

Pros

• Highly visible green laser
• Great for indoor projects
• Compact size
• Great price
• Foolproof operation

Cons

• Laser hard to see outdoors

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Before: Sound Structure, Worn Decking

This home’s existing decking and railing was in bad condition, but the pressure-treated structure was still sound. There’s no need to tear down an rebuild, when a simple decking and railing update will suffice. And the results of this makeover will surprise you.